March 7th: Takasu to Tomakomai

We went on to Tomakomai, to visit the recreated Ainu village Poroto Kotan. I wasn’t expecting much after passing the caged bears near the entrance. Luckily the bears were an exception: The recreated buildings had great atmosphere and at least looked authentic, with thatched roofs, wooden beams and real salmon hanging from the rafters.

Ainu are the aboriginal people of Hokkaido and northern Honshu (the main island of Japan), whose numbers have been reduced and culture almost wiped in much the same way as aboriginal people in Canada or anywhere else in the world. I was struck by how much the Ainu culture resembles Native Indian cultures in Canada. The striking designs of their clothes, their powerful and haunting music and dancing, their dependence on salmon and reverence for the bear.

I should be able to think of more parralels and explain myself better but we had a very short time to spend at the museum before moving on. I would rather have spent the time exploring the place, but Yui and I were made to?dress up in Ainu garb.

We then rushed to Kaori’s house to meet her parents, who talked with us and fed us some delicous food and drinks, including Hokkaido potatoes and butter, two things I’d wanted to try (amoung the many foods Hokkaido is famed for are potatoes and dairy products).

The we dashed to the ferry terminal and catch a midnight ferry to Hachinohe, in Aomori. My first ferry ride in Japan, I didn’t get as seasick as I thought but I didn’t enjoy myself either. We had a big room to ourselves, furnished with tiny pillows, a TV, and not much else. Some kind of blanket would have been nice, since it was freezing, and even after putting on and/or covering myself in all the clothing I was carrying, I couldn’t get warm and only slept a few hours. If I ever make this journey again, I’m?going to?bring a blanket or sleeping bag for sure.