GO! GO! Spa from Kyoto!

Winter is now! I want to have a leisurely bath. The bath means not Sento (a public bath), but Onsen (hot springs). There is hot springs in Kyoto city also, but a place which is able to eat delicious crab is the coast of the Sea of Japan in winter. So let’s run up to Kinosaki onsen (Spa) for only one day! Because I do not have money too much. And the charge is expensive, if I will stay in the Japanese inn.
Thus, I left Kyoto by the train (JR Sagano-Sanin Line) for Fukuchiyama at 7:47, though it was rainy day. Of course with Seishun 18 (ju-hachi) kippu. Because its cost was 2,300 yen a day.

Kinosaki onsen

Kinosaki onsen with history in 1300 is a spa town where be located in north of Hyogo prefecture. It has become famous for novels “Kinosaki-nite” the scene of which was on the Kinosaki was written by Shiga Naoya (1883-1971) who is great writer of Meiji era. And it was visited by a lot of great writers also.


You can do Sotoyu meguri (to enjoy strolling around to try hot springs baths in the town) tasting a tasteful willow trees all along the banks of Otani-gawa river which has Taiko-bashi (a bridge) that was made by stone. Kinosaki is also called “Kani o-koku (Kingdom of the crab)” that is famed place where you can taste a delicious crab from November to March.



A day trip for Kinosaki onsen


I changed train at Fukutiyama Station which took about 2 hours by local train from Kyoto, and arrived at Kinosaki onsen Station at 11:28. It took a little less than 4 hours (included much waiting time because it is a single track) in all to there. If you get on a limited express using JR pass, it will take around 2 hours and half.


In Kinosaki onsen Station, I was welcomed by noren of crab patterns, when I exited ticket gate I met Kani bento (box lunch with crab).


That reminded me that I was on an empty stomach. And I intended that I should go to have a lunch first. However I found Ashiyu at the place where I left Station. Ashiyu is hot springs spots where one’s foot only can bathe keeping wearing clothes. It can enjoy without circumstance, moreover it warms one’s body. So as of that time, I decided that I ease my tired foot and go to take a meal.


I wondered what I should eat. Sara-soba (soba on many small plates) of Izushi is famous, but Kinosaki is well endowed with a large variety of fishes and shellfishes harvested from the Sea of Japan. And it is well-known that crab is so delicious in winter season. Souvenir shops were selling fresh crabs at storefront.


There are a lot of ways of eating crab, but Nigiri (hand-shaped) sushi which was covered with a fresh peeled crab was chosen by me then. I smacked my lips over the sushi.


I was going to hot springs after I had a meal, but my attention was engaged by the smoking hot Onsen Manju (Japanese-style bun stuffed with azuki-bean paste which is sold at Onsen town). Of course I bought it and ate, so, the sweet anko (azuki-bean paste) which is the inside of a hot Onsen Manju made me happy.


In Kinosaki onsen, there are 7 Sotoyu along the Otani-gawa river. We call public baths of hot springs which are in Japanese inn Uchiyu, and we call public baths of hot springs which are in the town Sotoyu. It is Sotoyu Meguri that enjoying strolling around to try Sotoyu in the town, and it is a peculiarity of Kinosaki onsen. Sotoyu have each histories and graces, it is said that if you can try of all Sotoyu, you may get happiness. If you are staying Japanese inn, bathing charges of all Sotoyu will become free with complimentary tickets, and you are able to make rounds of Sotoyu wearing a yukata (an informal kimono) and a geta (a pair of Japanese wooden clogs). It is the standard costumes when doing Sotoyu Meguri! If you are not staying Japanese inn, then you have to pay a bathing charge for each Sotoyu (600-800yen).


Ko-no-yu which is one of public bathhouses of hot springs is most far from Station, but has roten-buro which is outdoor baths in the garden, so I decided to go to there. It is said that it was discovered as ibis mended the leg there, and it is the oldest Sotoyu.


The guest who was at 13:30 on the weekday was only me. Because I had a roten-buro all to myself, I appreciated a luxurious time.


Hot water of hot springs was salty, and the sense of touch was a little slimy. Temperature of the source of hot springs is 38-80 degree and its element is sodium chloride substance. It is said that it effects a neuralgia, a disease of organ of digestion, and a recovery of tiredness, etc.. According to the admonition of Onsen which is hanging on the wall of a changing room, do not wash hot springs which attached to body out to keep these effects.


I went for a strolls in around there after I took a hot spring bath at Ko-no-yu. Of course it is also good idea that I soak in other Sotoyu. (However, it is necessary to note it because you might feel bad after you take a long bath and a lot of baths too much.)

The soft ice cream tempted me after taking a bath. It seemed to be also happy to eat Onsen tamago (a boiled egg made in hot springs) making it. If it had been fine day, I would have got on a ropeway to see the Sea of Japan from the top of Mt. Daishi.


I did not go, but going to the Kinosaki traditional straw work pavilion (admission fee 300 yen) to see the tradition folkcrafts and going round in the temple such as Gokuraku-ji Temple and the Onsen-ji Temple must be also good.


I got on a return train at 18:17 since I got a feeling of happiness because I had a leisurely hot spring bath and ate delicious crabs. I had to change local train 3 times, and the train reached Kyoto Station around 22:00.

Kinosaki onsen is a spa town that can be enjoyed enough from Kyoto or Osaka even by the day trip. If you want to enjoy the Sotoyu Meguri, wearing a yukata and a geta, I recommend that you should stay at Japanese inn at Kinosaki onsen for a night. However its cost is expensive.

Bed and 2 meals; 8,400 yen to 27,000 yen
Bed only; 5,250 yen to 7,350 yen

[The bathing charge for Sotoyu]

Any Sotoyu sell a small towel (150 yen) and it is possible to use a pay hair dryer (100 yen per 7 minutes).
Ichi-no-yu (It is said that it has the graces for lucky and getting good fortune): 600 yen, cave-baths, private-baths (extra charge; 3,000 yen per 40minutes, up to 3 persons), Ashiyu (free)
Ko-no-yu (It is said that it has the graces for getting a happiness): 600 yen, outdoor baths in the garden
Gosho-no-yu (It is said that it has the graces for becoming beauty): 800 yen
Sato-no-yu; 800 yen, sauna baths, Ashiyu (free)
Jizo-yu (It is said that it has the graces for the salvation of all living things): 600 yen, private baths (extra charge; 3,000 yen per 40minutes, up to 3 persons)
Mandara-yu (It is said that it has the graces for doing good business): 600 yen
Yanagi-yu (It is said that it has the graces for becoming pregnant and having an easy birth): 600 yen, Ashiyu (free)

[The way of taking a public bath]

http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2292_how.html
http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/indepth/history/experience/cl.html